What is a Superpuppy?

Discussion relating to Socket 7 hardware.
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KachiWachi
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Post by KachiWachi »

Is a display planned for Superpuppy 3?
Moderator - Wim's BIOS

PC #1 - DFI 586IPVG, K6-2/+ 450 (Cyrix MII 433), 128 MB EDO. BIOS patched by Jan Steunebrink.
PC #2 - Amptron PM-7900 (M520), i200 non-MMX, 128 MB EDO
PC #3 - HP8766C, PIII-667, 768 MB SDRAM
PC #4 - ASUS P3V4X, PIII-733, 256 MB SDRAM
PC #5 - Gateway 700X, P4-2.0 GHz, 768 MB PC800 RDRAM
PC #6 - COMPAQ Evo N1020v laptop, P4-2.4 GHz, 1 GB PC2700 DDR
PC #7 - Dell Dimension 4600i, P4-2.8 GHz, 512 MB PC2700 DDR
PC #8 - Acer EeePC netbook, Atom N270 @ 1.60 GHz, 1 GB RAM
PC #9 - ??? ;)
Jim
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Location: Toronto

Post by Jim »

Well, yes. That is what I built this one for.
Superpuppy 3
K6-3+ 450 ACZ (6x100)
DFI K6BV3+/66 Rev B2 (2 Meg) w/ 2x28mm Chipset Fans
2x256 Meg PC 133 Hynix SDRAM
1x 20G Maxtor (7200)
2x 80G Maxtor (7200) Ducted w/ 2x486 Fans Mount
52/24/52/16 LG CDR/RW/DVD
8/4/3/12/24/16/32 LG Super Multi
ATI 9000 aiw Radeon AGP
SB Audigy 1 MP3 Sound
CMD 649 IDE Controller
NEC USB 2 Card
Jim
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Posts: 1745
Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2004 7:10 pm
Location: Toronto

Post by Jim »

@ KachiWachi : Am Progressing once again, thanks to your help. Have now got to consider the wiring for the Grayhill. Would simplify things and help keep them much neater if I could use something like a printer port cable both to wire up the conections to the display; and to wire up the connections to the sensor junction that I made. Question is , is the wire in such cables heavy enough guage for this kind of purpose?
Last edited by Jim on Fri Sep 15, 2006 8:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Superpuppy 3
K6-3+ 450 ACZ (6x100)
DFI K6BV3+/66 Rev B2 (2 Meg) w/ 2x28mm Chipset Fans
2x256 Meg PC 133 Hynix SDRAM
1x 20G Maxtor (7200)
2x 80G Maxtor (7200) Ducted w/ 2x486 Fans Mount
52/24/52/16 LG CDR/RW/DVD
8/4/3/12/24/16/32 LG Super Multi
ATI 9000 aiw Radeon AGP
SB Audigy 1 MP3 Sound
CMD 649 IDE Controller
NEC USB 2 Card
Jim
K6'er Elite
Posts: 1745
Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2004 7:10 pm
Location: Toronto

Post by Jim »

Minor progress report : Have drilled the necessary holes in the case to mount the display; and mounted it. Also, both the chassis fan speed control; and the grayhill are now mounted; and the necessary adapters to enable the chosen matching set of knobs to be mounted have been created. That entailed a fair bit of mickey mousing; custom made mounts, case mods etc. in order to mount them in such a manner that they are mounted on the case, - not the front panel. SP3 has a clipon front panel with no wires whatsoever connecting it to the case; and I want it to stay that way for ease of removal.

The display fuse also took some mickey mousing, because the front of the case is getting a bit crowded. I had to make a plate to cover some unused holes in the case front, then enlarge the largest hole so there would be room for the fuse mount to fit in properly and have the securing nut seat properly without having one side of the nut pressing against metal and the other side hanging in midair, because the existing hole was off centre from where the fuse mount has to go.

Have now made the mount for the display's on / off switch and mounted it. Like the mounts for the Grayhill; and the Chassis Fan speed control pot, it has standoffs holding it at the right height from the case front so the push button will protrude the right amount through the front panel. The case mods required are now complete except for the front panel mods.

Still remaining to be done, is : 1) Finish mounting the temperature sensors; 2) Create the plugin wiring harness to wire the whole thing up; 3) Mod the front panel, adding the display window and making the holes for the various switches and knobs to protrude through; & 4) Reassemble and reload all the software.
Superpuppy 3
K6-3+ 450 ACZ (6x100)
DFI K6BV3+/66 Rev B2 (2 Meg) w/ 2x28mm Chipset Fans
2x256 Meg PC 133 Hynix SDRAM
1x 20G Maxtor (7200)
2x 80G Maxtor (7200) Ducted w/ 2x486 Fans Mount
52/24/52/16 LG CDR/RW/DVD
8/4/3/12/24/16/32 LG Super Multi
ATI 9000 aiw Radeon AGP
SB Audigy 1 MP3 Sound
CMD 649 IDE Controller
NEC USB 2 Card
Jim
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Posts: 1745
Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2004 7:10 pm
Location: Toronto

Post by Jim »

As stated Superpuppy 3's case mods are done now. Front of the machine now looks like this :

EDIT : I redid the first picture, because it is very dificult to get a decent shot w/ my webcam. It does nice pics but it is very hard to centre them properly while at the same time having proper focus. Anyway I wanted to show that the two large knobs are centred over the temperature readout; and the display on / off switch is centred under the display.

Image

The Enermax 3.5 inch "Fan Speed Control / Temperature Readout" unit looks like this :

Image

The front chassis fan I think, (been a long time since I looked at it), has jumpers which you can use to set the temperature at which it comes on. (It has its own temperature sensing unit to control that). It also has a speed control pot which is the left hand one of the two large knobs above the Enermax unit.

The right hand knob of the two large ones is the one for the 12 position double decker Grayhill switch which switches both the Enermax readout from one temperature sensor to another; and switches the display that tells you which sensor is currently being monitored.

EDIT : Should mention that the "Grayhill" double decker was too long for the standoffs to allow me to mount it without a case mod. Had to drill a hole in the case for the back end of the switch to protrude through.

The two medium sized knobs on the Enermax are the two processor fan speed controls. (Remember this thing now has two stacked processor fans). The small buttons on the Enermax set whether your readout is monitoring temperature or fan speed, and also which of the two built in circuits is being monitored. What I am doing is running one temperature sensor circuit directly to the processor and the other to the Grayhill, which splits it off to twelve different temperature sensors.

Image

The display that I built has been covered, (and logo'd), with a slot cut in the cover for the plugs to fit into. The power on switch and the fuse for the display have also been mounted.

Image

I hunted all over the place to find a red push button off / on switch cause I thought that would add a nice splash of colour; and I thought that a push button would look better than a toggle; and I didn't want a momentary switch. This was the only one I could find. The fuse holder is one of several I bought that I have had on hand for years.

Image

Finally the dust filter setup has been finished; and is installed. Removing the one large screw from the bottom allows the fine mesh metal screen to slide out from under the retainers carrying the plastic filter frame with it. Once completely removed the dust filter may be taken out of the screen and washed.

Image

Next comes mounting the temperature sensors and wiring.
Last edited by Jim on Fri Oct 20, 2006 7:59 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Superpuppy 3
K6-3+ 450 ACZ (6x100)
DFI K6BV3+/66 Rev B2 (2 Meg) w/ 2x28mm Chipset Fans
2x256 Meg PC 133 Hynix SDRAM
1x 20G Maxtor (7200)
2x 80G Maxtor (7200) Ducted w/ 2x486 Fans Mount
52/24/52/16 LG CDR/RW/DVD
8/4/3/12/24/16/32 LG Super Multi
ATI 9000 aiw Radeon AGP
SB Audigy 1 MP3 Sound
CMD 649 IDE Controller
NEC USB 2 Card
Jim
K6'er Elite
Posts: 1745
Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2004 7:10 pm
Location: Toronto

Post by Jim »

I suppose I should explain the real reason I stick to building ATs. It started when I first began to build computers. At that time all the case manufacturers were trying to make their cases look "Futureistic". To me the result was there were an awful lot of rather ugly ATX cases available; but none that I could find that I considered "Good Looking". I thought they all looked "Buck Rogers". For those of you who do not remember "Buck Rogers" it was a realistically drawn science fiction cartoon strip, (dating from the 30s on up to about the mid 50s), wherein EVERYTHING, (even a toaster), was drawn in some wierd swoopy futureistic design. Most ATX cases at that time were going the minimalist route, (fewest possible number of buttons and switches, - everything mouse controlled), with these wierd swoopy looking, (UGLY), front panels. So I stuck to the older ATs.

Some time later when I was still looking for a decent ATX case, I went into the local distributor for a major case manufacturer; and checked out their stock. Nothing I liked. I explained to the salesman, (Chinese), they all looked "Buck Rogers" to me, and asked him if he knew what that meant. He said no; but he assumed that it was something derogatory. I then explained what I meant by "Buck Rogers"; and went on to say, that when I laid out serious money to get a decent case, I didn't want one that looked like a randomly solidified blob of molten plastic; and that rather than the "Futureistic" look, I preferred the "Techie" look, - something like a high end stereo system. Something that looks like it cost some money.

I like to think that that conversation has influenced some of the more recent case designs; - and as you can see my preferences have certainly influenced the development of "Superpuppy 3".

EDIT : Another minor progress report.

Have finished mounting and wiring the "On Board" set of sensors, (8 of them). North Bridge, South Bridge, Timing Chip, Cache Chip 1, and Cache Chip 2, are wired together in a 10 pin plug. Ram Stick 1, and Ram Stick 2 have their separate 4 pin plug; while the Processor has a 2 pin plug of its own.

I am trying to make it as neat as I can, using heat shrink tubing to loom the wires; but as you can see the board is starting to look a little messy.

Image

Image

Image

Still have to do the 3 for the HDDs, 1 for ambient temperature, 1 for the Video Card, and 1 for the control that turns on the front chassis fan. Also still to be done is wire up the Grayhill. Last, (left for last because there is no room for error; and if the whole thing doesn't work, - it won't get done), is modify the front panel.

Re-Edit: Should mention if anyone is curious; that the method adopted to mount the sensors is the "Trickson" method. I chose that method because chip cooling is the primary objective of these modifications, temperature monitoring is secondary. Essentially your choises are :

1) Cut a relief in the bottom of the heatsink that is large and deep enough to enable the sensor to be placed directly in contact w/ the centre of the chip. The benefit of this method is you will get the most accurate possible temperature readings. The downside is that you reduce the effectiveness of the heatsink.

2) Use thermal transfer epoxy to glue the sensor in between two fins on the heatsink. Again this reduces the effectiveness of the heatsink, though not as much as method # 1. Accuracy of the measurements is reduced from that of method # 1.

3) The "Trickson" method, which is to crazy glue the sensor in place in contact with, and lying along one side of the chip. This method does not reduce the effectiveness of the heatsink; though the accuracy of the temperature measurements is somewhat questionable. It does however give a measurement which can at least be compared with other measurements taken at different FSB speeds, multiplier settings, etc.

EDIT : Encountered another problem when I went to wire up the power supply lead for the display. Had decided to use a "Floppy" power supply lead as my source line. The machine is already overcrowded so I did not want to use an inline IDE power lead. The Enermax "Fan Control - Temp Readout" unit comes with an IDE type plug "inline" wired into sub "Floppy" guage wiring; so I decided to junk that and replace it with a "Floppy Plug".

Stripped one off an old 770K floppy drive and went to mount it in the Enermax. Problem!! The design of the Enermax is such that you cannot use conventional nuts and bolts to mount anything on or in it; - you have to use "Flush Head" bolts. Well I have some of those that I had stripped out of junked power supplies; but no nuts that would fit them.

Soooo; tedious this, I retapped some nuts that were close, by repeatedly threading the nut onto the bolt as far as it would go, forcing it a bit more, then backing it all the way out and cleaning both nut and bolt. Got 1 done, need at least one more.

Change of plan Have decided that since the Enermax comes w/ an IDE type power plug, (on sub Floppy Guage wiring), it would be safest to have an "IDE type plug" for the input because they have larger contacts and presumably are capable of transmitting more power. The plan now is to mod the power input into the enermax so that :

1) It powers off a "Floppy Power Supply Cable" retrofitted w/ an IDE female plug. 2) It has a male "Floppy Plug", common to the IDE plug that it powers from, (by way of floppy guage wiring), that will enable me to "Plug" in another "Floppy Power Supply Cable", (a long one, saved from a junked power supply), that will serve as a power supply lead for the display setup.

Will post photos of the completed mods when done.

EDIT : 20/AUG/06 - Minor progress report.

I am no big fan of "inline plugs". I regard them as being messy, and potential problem causers. For this reason, I do not use "splitters" on my power supply, prefering instead to solder additional plugs into the harness as needed. The "Enermax" came with quite a mess of wiring attached.

Image

To my view the power wiring was unnecessarily long, (more wire to stuff out of the way), and had more plugs attached than necessary. Since I prefer to use fixed location plugs rather than inlines, (thus keeping wires positioned where I want them, rather than having them free to fall into fans, or otherwise cause trouble), I decided to modify the Enermax.

Examining it, I found there were 2 problems I would have to deal w/ in order to convert it to a fixed plug setup. 1) Its dimensions are such that it is designed to fill the bay entirely, leaving no room for bolt heads or nuts to protrude. 2) In order to save on the cost of materials, it is made of very light guage aluminum, w/ a considerable number of large holes punched out of it. Collectively this meant that I would have to bolt in a reinforcing bar using "Flush Head" bolts, in order to give me a sturdy enough base to withstand the forces involved in inserting and removing "IDE Plugs"; (which can be extreemly sticky sometimes), as well as a surface to mount things on. Also I wanted a 5v power source for my "Display"

So here is what I wound up doing.

Image

Image

I used the same trick I used on Superpuppy 2 when I needed a fixed "Male IDE Plug", namely I cut two slots about 1/16" deep by about 1/4 " wide in the sides of the plug behind the receptacle head, then fashioned an aluminum bracket that would fit into those slots thereby preventing the plug from sliding forward out of the bracket when the "Female IDE Plug" is being removed.

Image

A lot of work there; but it is a fair bit neater as a result.

EDIT : 21/AUG/06 Minor progress report.
Have now modded the power supply harness, replacing one of the floppy plugs w/ an IDE female plug, while still using the original floppy guage wiring. Purpose being to power the Enermax, which uses an IDE male plug on sub floppy guage wiring.

Because the input to the Enermax is floppy guage, and the Enermax input IDE plug is common to the floppy plug that I mounted in the Enermax, (connected again w/ floppy guage wiring), the display power circuit has continuous floppy guage wiring up to the fuse. The Enermax uses, (unmodified original), fan guage wiring running from the IDE input plug, so everything should be heavy duty enough for the job.

EDIT : 28/AUG/06 Have now completed the last custom made mini circuit required for this rebuild. The item involved was a "Power Supply Bus" for the display. Its function is to enable the Power Source; Fuse; On / Off Switch; and Display to all plug together. I would have preferred to make it so that each of those items could be individually unplugged; but safety considerations led me to put them all, except for the Power Source, in a single "Keyed" multipin plug to insure that it cannot be incorrectly connected. This was particularly necessary since the receptacle contains an unused 12v source for possible future needs.

In any case it will be more convenient to take apart than soldered connections, becaues if the components need to be separated the wires can always be removed from the plug shell. Photo and circuit diagram at some later date.

EDIT : Here, for anyone interested, is the complete 3 dimensional circuit diagram for the display.

Should mention that the diodes used are just a tiny bit too large in diameter for you to put 2 of them in adjacent holes given standard circuit board. What I had to do in order to create the 3D circuit shown in the diagram, is walk the holes ever so slightly sideways, left on the left side of the circuit, and right on the right side of the circuit, using my dremel. The same problem existed in the front and back orientation; and it was dealt w/ the same way.

That is the reason the soldering job is rather sloppy, because the holes wound up being larger than otherwise necessary; and it was difficult to get the positions to take solder except by using a lot.

EDIT : 23/AUG/06 NOTE that there has been an "EDIT" back on page 7 to include a circuit diagram for the "Sensor Bus".

EDIT : 01/SEPT/06 Here is the "Display Power Bus" circuit diagram that I mentioned. Not much to it really, just a means of disconnecting components, and the purpose of the file is just to keep a record of the connections.

Should metion that all wiring : to, from, and inside the "Display Power Bus" is floppy power supply wire taken from defunct power supplies that I collected from dumpsters. The purpose being to insure that there is more than adequate load carrying capacity throughout the whole system that brings power to the display.

In passing would like to know, "Who is the one person who downloaded the 3D circuit diagram for the display"?
Attachments
Display Power Bus circuit.doc
(2.94 KiB) Downloaded 447 times
3DDisplay Circuit.doc
(18.63 KiB) Downloaded 458 times
Last edited by Jim on Mon Sep 18, 2006 11:50 pm, edited 8 times in total.
Superpuppy 3
K6-3+ 450 ACZ (6x100)
DFI K6BV3+/66 Rev B2 (2 Meg) w/ 2x28mm Chipset Fans
2x256 Meg PC 133 Hynix SDRAM
1x 20G Maxtor (7200)
2x 80G Maxtor (7200) Ducted w/ 2x486 Fans Mount
52/24/52/16 LG CDR/RW/DVD
8/4/3/12/24/16/32 LG Super Multi
ATI 9000 aiw Radeon AGP
SB Audigy 1 MP3 Sound
CMD 649 IDE Controller
NEC USB 2 Card
Jim
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Posts: 1745
Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2004 7:10 pm
Location: Toronto

Post by Jim »

With thanks to Nohr, who sorted out the problem I was having w/ editing posts.

Here are the pics of the "Display Power Bus", (Gotta call it something), that I said would be forthcoming.

Image

And here we see it wired up.

Image

And here is a shot of the wiring running from the "DPB" up to the Display.

Image

Next comes wiring up the "Grayhill". That is going to be a little more difficult than it sounds. I bet you didn't know that those little plugs that are used to connect LEDs, Keylocks, Turbo Switches, and so forth to your motherboard, come in at least 3 different proprietary types. You mainly see 1 type that is most commonly used, but there are 2 others, which are very similar except that the pins use a different locking method to hold them in the plastic shell.

All of them are hard to find in stores, and you have to take what you can find. Here in Toronto, you can find a few of the common style plastic plug shells; but not the matching pins that go in them. The pins that you can find are a different type, (that you can't find plastic plug shells for), which have to be extensively modified in order to get them to work in the common type shells. Proprietary of course. Ain't our system lovely?

Should mention that if anyone else trys to do what I am trying to do, they should if at all possible get the other type of "Grayhill", by which I mean the type with the PC Board contacts, as opposed to the type I am using w/ "Solder Lug" contacts. The reason for this is that the PC board contact type can be fairly readily "plugged in" to an appropriate custom made receptacle. The solder lug type require a veritable forest of wires to be soldered onto them, and thus are not nearly as easy to replace should the switch ever fail.

Should also mention that if anyone winds up using a "Grayhill" switch fitted w/ solder lugs, you MUST solder the wires furthest from the knob, (at the back of the switch), FIRST, or you will probably wind up burning the insulation on some of your wires, and getting shorts as a result. NO I didn't do it wrong, spotted that problem in advance, and did it the way I am suggesting trouble free.

EDIT : 04/SEPT/06 Minor Progress Report
The "Grayhill" is now wired up at the switch end of the wiring. Because the space it fits into is tight; and because the back end of it has to fit through a hole in the front of the case, I will be giving the solder lug contacts a coating of epoxy to prevent shorts where it passes through the case. Soooo, I decided to post a pic or two of the wiring on the switch while it can still be seen.

Image

The wiring guage used is 22 guage on all wires connected to the Grayhill, and the soldering job is neat and tidy.

Image

EDIT : 05/SEPT/06 Minor progress Report The "Grayhill" is now installed w/ the wiring harness on it. Also made wiring looms for that part of the harness, (magenta wires), that goes to the "Sensor Bus". The looms are easy to make; just take an appropriate size socket wrench, and use a pair of pliers to wrap a strip of aluminum around it in such a manner that the ends of the strip form two tabs sticking out on one side of the resultant circle. Drill a hole through the tabs to put a bolt through, then neaten it up a bit w/ a file and you are done. The grey wires, (which go to the plug that goes on the display), didn't need "Looming".

Image

Also had to make one more minor case mod to get it to fit in ok; namely cut a semicircular relief in the front part of the mount that the front 3.5 inch bays hang from in order to give the wiring harness room to bend to the mobo side of the case.

Image

Next comes wiring up the plug for the display, then I have to install the mobo in order to get the length right for the harness going to the "Sensor Bus" plug.

EDIT 20/SEPT/06 : Progress Report : Back at work on my number one "Dog". The wiring harness from the "Grayhill" to the display is now finished; and has been powered up and found to work perfectly on all switch positions. Photos of the finished job; and the way the display lights @ 2.2 v to follow.

EDIT 20/09/06 - 10:37 P.M : The wiring job to the display plug is satisfactory; though nothing to write home about. Tried to make it look like one of those machine made cables; - did not quite suceed.

Image

All 12 positions are now working on the Grayhill. Here we see pics w/ the switch in the #8 and #9 positions The display is actually quite a bit "Greener" than the pics indicate. The better the focus of the pic becomes the more the webcam turns lights yellow.

Image

Image

Next step is to do the cable going from the Grayhill to the "Sensor Bus".

EDIT : 04/OCT/06 : Have finished wiring up the cable from the "Grayhill" to the "Sensor Bus". Photos to follow, (when I get my blankety blank webcam working properly again.) Once thats done, next step will be to get rid of the stupid useless "Inline Plugs" attached to the "Enermax" for the CPU fans; and convert them to "Fixed" plugs. Photos will show why. (All told 6 wires about a yard too long - obviously made w/ barn sized ATX machines in mind.)

EDIT : 08/OCT/06 : Minor Progress Report. Having got my webcam working again, and reinstalled most of my software, here are the promised pics. First one shows the completed wiring from the "Grayhill" to the "Sensor Bus". What you see there is a single 14 pin connector for all the "Grayhill" connections. Still to be done are the connections from the "Enermax", the front chassis fan temp sensor, the sensors for the HDDs, The video card and ambient temperature.

Image

The second shot shows why I am less than enamoured of "Inline Plugs". Bit of spare wire there; - no ? Changing that will be the next step.

Image

EDIT : 15/OCT/06 Minor Progress Report. Have now finished converting the "Inline Plugs" for the processor fans to "Fixed Plug" receptacles. Got rid of a fair bit of unnecessary wire as a result.

In passing should mention that the method used to "Recycle" the pins in the various plugs that I modify is to use a small "Swiss Needle" square file to file the top off of the wire strands crimp till I can see faint crack lines indicating that the top part of the crimp can be removed. I then use a utility knife or fine screwdriver to carefully dig out the top part of the crimp from the rest of the pin. Once that is done, I just pull the wire out of the pin, then use a fine screwdriver to open up the insultation crimp so the wire can be put back in, crimped at the insulation; and soldered at the strands once it has been shortened.

Image

The means by which the modified receptacle is mounted is boltdown, wherein the base of the receptacle contains the nuts which the "Flush Head" screws that secure the reinforcing bar screw into. The slot seen in one side of the receptacle is a clearance space for one of the screws that mount the "Enermax" in its bay.

Image

Next step will be to do the rest of the connections to the "Sensor Bus".

EDIT : 15/OCT/06 - 11:54 P. M. More Minor Progress. Have now finished wiring the connections for the two temperature sensor connections running from the "Enermax" to the "Sensor Bus". That completes the wiring of the "Enermax". Still to be done is the wiring from the front chassis fan to the "Sensor Bus"; and the rest of the sensors.

EDIT : 29/OCT/06 Minor Progress Report. -- Have now got the 3 HDD sensors and the front chassis fan speed control sensor installed and wired up to the "Sensor Bus". Had to make a decision there between "Neatness", (Looming the wires neatly along the surface of the mobo), and "Serviceability", (Running the wires through midair, not in any way entangled w/ other wires, thereby making it easier to remove the clip in mounts.) Serviceability won.

Originally was going to do it the other way; and I mounted the sensors on the mobo side of the drives w/ that in mind, did the routing; and realized it would be unpleasent to have to take apart. So I did it over, remounting the sensors away from the mobo and rerouting the wires so they do not pass under any other wires whatsoever.

Have also made another minor mod to the front chassis fan speed control. It came w/ a plug to connect the trim pot to the fan; but the plug was so close to the fan that it is inside the clipin housing that the fan is mounted in, which in turn made it impossible to disconnect the trim pot from the fan without removing the fan from the clipin mount. That in turn made it impossible to remove the fan & mount from the case without disassembling the trimpot mount, then removing the fan & mount with the trimpot attached.

The modification was to make both the trim pot and the fan plug into the chassis fan mount so either can be removed without disturbing the other.

Updated Photos : First, here is what the "Sensor Bus" looks like now.

Image

Here we see the two new Diamond Max 80 Gig drives in the ducted fan mount with their temperature sensors installed. Also have replaced the rubber flange at the back of the mount with a new larger one to improve the air seal; (preventing warmed air from being blownback into the case).

Image

Here we see the front 20 Gig Diamond Max mounted with its temperature sensor installed. You may notice that there is VERY LITTLE clearance between the bottom of the HDD and the top of the CPU Heat Sink / Fan combo.

Image

Here is another shot to better illustrate the point. Though the drive is not actually in contact with the fan, there is only about enough room to slide a razorblade between them.

Image

Here is another shot taken before the HDD temperature sensors were installed which shows that the front HDD not only just barely clears the CPU Heatsink / Fan assembly; but it also just barely clears the Front Chassis Fan mount which fits in in front of it. (Bit of planning involved in adding custom clipin bays.)

Image

This one shows the plug added this weekend to allow the Front Chassis Fan assembly to be removed from the case without having to remove the trimpot which controls its speed.

Image

Still to be done are the temperature sensors for the Video Card, and Ambient Temperature then reassembly and testing prior to modifying the Front Panel.
Last edited by Jim on Mon Oct 30, 2006 12:07 am, edited 17 times in total.
Superpuppy 3
K6-3+ 450 ACZ (6x100)
DFI K6BV3+/66 Rev B2 (2 Meg) w/ 2x28mm Chipset Fans
2x256 Meg PC 133 Hynix SDRAM
1x 20G Maxtor (7200)
2x 80G Maxtor (7200) Ducted w/ 2x486 Fans Mount
52/24/52/16 LG CDR/RW/DVD
8/4/3/12/24/16/32 LG Super Multi
ATI 9000 aiw Radeon AGP
SB Audigy 1 MP3 Sound
CMD 649 IDE Controller
NEC USB 2 Card
radman3d
Newbie K6'er
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2006 4:58 pm

Post by radman3d »

Jim, I was wondering what driver you are using with your ATI 9000 and what operating system?
K6-3+ 450@600MHz (6x100)
DFI K6BV3+/66 Rev B1 (1 Meg)
2x256 Meg PC 133 Crucial SDRam
1x15G (7200) ATA 66 Seagate
1x80G (7200) ATA 100 WD
ATI Radeon 9000 AGP
SB 512
WIndows XP Pro (SP2)
radman3d
Newbie K6'er
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2006 4:58 pm

Post by radman3d »

Here are my specs now.


K6-3+ 450@600MHz (6x100)
DFI K6BV3+/66 Rev B1 (1 Meg)
2x256 Meg PC 133 Crucial SDRam
1x15G (7200) ATA 66 Seagate
1x80G (7200) ATA 100 WD
ATI 9000
SB 512
WIndows XP (SP2)
K6-3+ 450@600MHz (6x100)
DFI K6BV3+/66 Rev B1 (1 Meg)
2x256 Meg PC 133 Crucial SDRam
1x15G (7200) ATA 66 Seagate
1x80G (7200) ATA 100 WD
ATI Radeon 9000 AGP
SB 512
WIndows XP Pro (SP2)
Jim
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Posts: 1745
Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2004 7:10 pm
Location: Toronto

Post by Jim »

I think you will find the answers to all that In my Superpuppy 3 Setup post. There is a download in there on how I set up my XP 98 dualboot which I think lists the dirvers I use; though it may not mention the Service Pack that I use which is 1a.
Superpuppy 3
K6-3+ 450 ACZ (6x100)
DFI K6BV3+/66 Rev B2 (2 Meg) w/ 2x28mm Chipset Fans
2x256 Meg PC 133 Hynix SDRAM
1x 20G Maxtor (7200)
2x 80G Maxtor (7200) Ducted w/ 2x486 Fans Mount
52/24/52/16 LG CDR/RW/DVD
8/4/3/12/24/16/32 LG Super Multi
ATI 9000 aiw Radeon AGP
SB Audigy 1 MP3 Sound
CMD 649 IDE Controller
NEC USB 2 Card
Jim
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Posts: 1745
Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2004 7:10 pm
Location: Toronto

Post by Jim »

@ radman3d : Should point out that I am no expert viv a vis what version of the ATI Catalyst drivers or even what version of the VIA Hyperion drivers is best to use. There are a number of people here who are better qualified than me to advise you on that. I just use the newest version that seems to work, at the time that I build the machine; and don't bother to check the new releases thereafter. Fact is I could use some advise on the subject myself.

What you may find interesting is my post on "WPCredit as applied to a DFI K6BV3+/66" in the software and tweaking section. It will show you how to get considerably better performance out of your machine than you may be getting. There is also a post on "Overclocking the DFI K6BV3+/66" in the same section.
Superpuppy 3
K6-3+ 450 ACZ (6x100)
DFI K6BV3+/66 Rev B2 (2 Meg) w/ 2x28mm Chipset Fans
2x256 Meg PC 133 Hynix SDRAM
1x 20G Maxtor (7200)
2x 80G Maxtor (7200) Ducted w/ 2x486 Fans Mount
52/24/52/16 LG CDR/RW/DVD
8/4/3/12/24/16/32 LG Super Multi
ATI 9000 aiw Radeon AGP
SB Audigy 1 MP3 Sound
CMD 649 IDE Controller
NEC USB 2 Card
Jim
K6'er Elite
Posts: 1745
Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2004 7:10 pm
Location: Toronto

Post by Jim »

One thing I have decided for sure; SP3 is never going to be a "Plexiglass Window" machine. Way too crowded inside, - looks like an electronics scrapyard. Photos to follow.
Superpuppy 3
K6-3+ 450 ACZ (6x100)
DFI K6BV3+/66 Rev B2 (2 Meg) w/ 2x28mm Chipset Fans
2x256 Meg PC 133 Hynix SDRAM
1x 20G Maxtor (7200)
2x 80G Maxtor (7200) Ducted w/ 2x486 Fans Mount
52/24/52/16 LG CDR/RW/DVD
8/4/3/12/24/16/32 LG Super Multi
ATI 9000 aiw Radeon AGP
SB Audigy 1 MP3 Sound
CMD 649 IDE Controller
NEC USB 2 Card
User avatar
tazwegion
Veteran K6'er
Posts: 349
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2003 11:13 am
Location: Victoria, Australia

Post by tazwegion »

Jim wrote:One thing I have decided for sure; SP3 is never going to be a "Plexiglass Window" machine. Way too crowded inside, - looks like an electronics scrapyard. Photos to follow.
Well... I must say that is a real shame considering all the modding/hard work you've put in :( given the multitude of internal offerings, the fact it's crowded (inside) could in itself be it's appeal/charm :twisted:

BTW I like Buck Rogers! :P
Image
Jim
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Posts: 1745
Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2004 7:10 pm
Location: Toronto

Post by Jim »

Superpuppy 3's ATI 9000 Radeon aiw card has a sort of rudimentary cooling fan that came with it.

Image

The AGP card is the hottest running item in the machine, so I would like to improve its cooling. I originally planned to add a decent sized heatsink to the reverse side of the card; but that is easier said than done. The area bounded in red in the next shot is the back of the card opposite the cooling fan.

Image

As you can see there are a number of components, (resistors and / or capacitors), mounted in the area where I would like to put a heatsink. Putting a heatsink on top of that, would both : a) Probably cause electrical shorts, and b) Have very poor heat transfer because of the lack of proper contact caused by the "components" under it.

Even the small area in the centre of the "Component Square" has a number of very small solder tags in it, which would again cause shorts unless some provision were made to prevent them. The best I have been able to come up with, is to epoxy a piece of mica in the centre area then mount a small heatsink on the mica; though I have no idea how much good that would do.

Am open to suggestions on this problem, as long as they do not entail not using the #1 PCI slot.

And Taz, I have not forgotten about the "Window Issue", will post pics of what the whole thing looks like with everything installed when I get to that point.
Superpuppy 3
K6-3+ 450 ACZ (6x100)
DFI K6BV3+/66 Rev B2 (2 Meg) w/ 2x28mm Chipset Fans
2x256 Meg PC 133 Hynix SDRAM
1x 20G Maxtor (7200)
2x 80G Maxtor (7200) Ducted w/ 2x486 Fans Mount
52/24/52/16 LG CDR/RW/DVD
8/4/3/12/24/16/32 LG Super Multi
ATI 9000 aiw Radeon AGP
SB Audigy 1 MP3 Sound
CMD 649 IDE Controller
NEC USB 2 Card
User avatar
KachiWachi
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Posts: 507
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2005 10:53 am
Location: Pennsylvania, USA

Post by KachiWachi »

It depends on how the part mounts to the PC board.

In photo #2, it appears the chip is a through-hole part...is it?

If there is an air gap on the top-side (there should be), a heat sink or whatever on the back side of the board will serve no purpose other than sinking the substrate.

You would probably be better off just blowing cool air along the card so that is "blows through" this gap...if you get my meaning.
Moderator - Wim's BIOS

PC #1 - DFI 586IPVG, K6-2/+ 450 (Cyrix MII 433), 128 MB EDO. BIOS patched by Jan Steunebrink.
PC #2 - Amptron PM-7900 (M520), i200 non-MMX, 128 MB EDO
PC #3 - HP8766C, PIII-667, 768 MB SDRAM
PC #4 - ASUS P3V4X, PIII-733, 256 MB SDRAM
PC #5 - Gateway 700X, P4-2.0 GHz, 768 MB PC800 RDRAM
PC #6 - COMPAQ Evo N1020v laptop, P4-2.4 GHz, 1 GB PC2700 DDR
PC #7 - Dell Dimension 4600i, P4-2.8 GHz, 512 MB PC2700 DDR
PC #8 - Acer EeePC netbook, Atom N270 @ 1.60 GHz, 1 GB RAM
PC #9 - ??? ;)
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